Island viticulture isn’t common in the New World and it certainly brings its own fair share of challenges. “It costs us more to bring the barrels the 50km from Auckland than it does to bring them some 20,000km from France!” long-time Waiheke Island winemaker, Martin Pickering, explained to me, as we sat enjoying a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon overlooking the vineyards and palm trees of Stonyridge. Although there are some tricky logistics involved in Waiheke wine production, Stonyridge Vineyards has been producing one of the most celebrated Bordeaux blends in New Zealand since the ’80s.
When yacht sailor, Bordeaux-drinker and ambitious dreamer Stephen White decided to plant vines on Waiheke Island in 1982 there was only one other newly-planted vineyard on the island and Waiheke wine wasn’t on anyone’s radar. Just a short boat ride from New Zealand’s largest city, Auckland, Waiheke Island is very much seen as a lifestyle destination today but White’s decision to plant vines there was based on the fact that the average temperatures were similar to Bordeaux and the clay-based soils would work for Bordeaux varieties. He was the only one of the early vineyards to plant on north-facing slopes inland, where they have better sun exposure, rather than with a view of the sea (which looks good but isn’t as practical). His ambition wasn’t to look at pretty island views, but to make this pretty island a place of high-quality wine production. Something which the winery’s strong allocation-only distribution continues to attest to.
“It was carefully planned for quality wine production,” Martin explains the process behind deciding to found Stonyridge on Waiheke. “We are in a bit of a rain shadow – the island is surrounded by land masses on three of the four sides.” Rainfall is still quite high in Waiheke, but much lower than most of the neighbouring wine regions on New Zealand’s mainland.
The advantage of a moderate climate with a long growing season is the ability to ripen red varieties, which is why Stonyridge focuses the vast majority of their production on red varieties, specifically Bordeaux varieties. It is a blend of all six Bordeaux red varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Carmènere) that makes up their flagship wine, Larose. This wine has gained a cult following in New Zealand and around the globe, often being compared in tastings with top wines from Bordeaux.
While wine production certainly comes first and foremost at Stonyridge Vineyard, there is an important wine tourism element to the winery today. A bistro with an outdoor terrace offers the perfect opportunity not only to taste the Stonyridge wines, but to sample them alongside mouthwatering dishes with local ingredients, including their own olive oil (Stonyridge planted the first commercial olive grove in New Zealand).
Stonyridge winemaker Martin and I sat down to a wine tasting (followed by a delicious lunch) where he explained their Waiheke wine production and some of his favourite bistro pairings:
Waiheke wine tasting notes: Stonyridge Vineyard
Stonyridge Vineyard Chardonnay 2017
Planted in their new Viña del Mar vineyard in 2014, this is their first crop of Chardonnay and it already showing well, with lots of stone fruit aromas, framed by fresh acidity and filled out with some voluptuousness from its barrel ferment. Fresh, full and an attractive Chardonnay from Waiheke, which Martin believes is one of the most promising white varieties on the island.
The new Chardonnay vineyard
Stonyridge Vineyard Airfield 2014
This blend of Malbec (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%) and Cabernet Franc (20%) is their second label but it has great fleshy red fruit notes with complex savoury aromas of cedar with floral hints and a freshness to the finish that make it a top wine in my book. This is a juicy and delicious blend from a great vintage.
Stonyridge Vineyard Luna Negra 2014
I have never tasted an island Malbec, but this was a revelation! It reveals the rich plummy notes so typical of Malbec and smooth, ripe tannins. It has a nice bloody note on the finish which just screams for a steak pairing.
Stonyridge Vineyard Pilgrim 2017
95% Syrah with a touch of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Viognier. This is full of red fruit and lots of juicy notes, a lovely and bright wine with a vibrant and fresh finish.
Stonyridge Vineyard Larose 2014
I can see what all the fuss is about. This Bordeaux-blend has a lovely leafiness and cedar notes with black pepper, blackcurrant and liquorice. It is wonderfully smooth and balanced following a year spent ageing in the barrel and three in the bottle. Having tasted through the barrels with Martin, I would say that the 52% of Cabernet Sauvignon gives you the fruit and spice but it is actually the 18% of Petit Verdot that creates the filigree spine to this wine – that’s the secret weapon in the Larose six-variety blend.
Fallen Angel Sémillon Hawke’s Bay 2015
As well as their Waiheke Island wines, Stonyridge produces a collection of other wines from around New Zealand to give visitors to their restaurant a chance to taste other profiles of New Zealand’s diverse wine production. We tasted their noble rot Sémillon from Hawke’s Bay, which is only released in the years when they can get the botrytis just right. This dessert wine has a lovely aromatic intensity with notes of ripe peach, honeycomb and some lovely petrol notes showing its age. Great with their apple strudel!
If you are planning a visit to Waiheke Island, my visit was in association with Wine Paths: offering luxury and exclusive wine tours and experiences in wine regions around the world. You can book your own Waiheke wine experience and visit to Stonyridge Vineyard online here.
PS. It’s easy to see why Waiheke Island is a popular getaway, no?
