Rioja’s wine is world-renowned but this is also a region known for its stellar cuisine. You can barely put a foot wrong anywhere in Spain when it comes to good home cooking, but there are some places that stand out head and shoulders above the rest. The kitchen of the Sánchez family is one of them.
Now run by the fifth generation of the family, this boutique hotel and restaurant has earned two Michelin stars (the first in Rioja) and Relais & Châteaux status for its fine cuisine and high thread count. I was there, however, to go back to the ‘basics’ of the family cuisine, in the Echuarren Tradición restaurant — where family classics are still served, albeit with a modern panache and silver spoon service. I opted for the tasting menu — seven courses of the house favourites.
The test of any great Spanish kitchen is its croquetas (croquettes), and the ‘croquetas de la casa’ kick off the tasting menu. Filled with ham and chicken and served simply as a pair of lightly fried croquetas on the plate. Unadorned, undressed and sitting vulnerably on a paper doily, ready for the test. It’s a bold statement for a restaurant just downstairs from El Portal.
Not only did they pass the test, but these were the best croquetas I’ve ever had. A fine crisp on the outside caved into the warm, smooth and creamy filling, which melted away as I placed it in my mouth — it was a bite-sized hug. And on a cold, rainy autumn evening, just the kind of hug I craved. Mission accomplished.
The apparent simplicity of the first dish (although don’t ever underestimate the hours it takes to beat the filling into a perfectly smooth paste) was betrayed by the complexity of the second dish: a prawn carpaccio. It sounds simple enough but actually the translucent slices of pink gamba were layered upon a juicy and fresh tomato tartar, white garlic cream, minuscule crunchy croutons and delicate caviar of Rioja red wine. Fresh and juicy, with layers of vibrant and delicate flavours with texture. Refined, and yet comforting.
I could probably use the same two adjectives to describe the rest of the meal – refined and yet comforting. The richness of the smoked peppers with a raw egg yolk and cubes of fried potato was like a soothing Spanish version of a carbonara, only better; and the silky pochas (beans) swimming in their own meaty broth, which I could smell before I could see, filled the room and my soul with comfort and pleasure.
The perfectly translucent flesh of confit hake was served to perfection, and the caramel and apple dessert with local cheese was sophisticated and daring.
The highlight for me, however, was the meat albondiga with perfectly cooked (crunchy) asparagus and a slice of truffle on top, elevating it to fine dining but not detracting from the earthy and juicy delight of Spain’s classic meatball.
The service was impeccable. Even my water was garnished with whatever ice shape or fruit I wanted, and the wine list was so extensive that I wished, for once, that I was dining with a group of friends so I could try a good part of it.
Echaurren delivers on both soulful and sophisticated food — retaining the heart and soul of its family recipes, but elevating them with sophistication and precision.
The restaurant similarly reflects the ambiance of the hotel. One the one hand, you are in a stunning enclave of architecture from the Middle Ages in the historical village of Ezcaray, while on the other, you are enveloped by modern luxury with an idiosyncratic art collection and decor.
My evening here was one of the highlights of my trip into Rioja’s wine country. Far from being a stop en route through Rioja, Ezcaray and Echaurren should be your destination.
