One of Portugal’s top sommeliers Manuel Moreira shares his insight with us into the great diversity of Portuguese wines and why its regions are world-class. In this casual interview at a wine bar in Porto, we ask Manuel what excites him about Portuguese wines and how he has seen them change over the years.
Manuel Moreira interview highlights
Amanda Barnes: How much has the wine scene changed, since the 90s?
Manuel Moreira: A lot! In the ’90s we had rustic wines. But since the 2000s there was a high revolution in terms of quality, with new winemakers and a new approach, with a greater knowledge about it. We came from the political revolution [in the ’70s] and came from the co-operative structure. The quality has improved a lot.
After the 2000s, the winemakers began experimenting and studying abroad and bringing that ‘know-how’ to their wines. And understanding what is happening in the world, and not just in their own country. Now we can enjoy amazing wines across the country.
Amanda Barnes: What is your classic, most emblematic example of Portuguese wine?
Manuel Moreira: Obviously the Douro, Dao, Bairrada and Alentejo are the main wine regions of the country. The different climates make different styles of the wines. The Douro wines are bringing a new taste to the world of wine.
Amanda Barnes: And what are your off-the-beaten-path regions or varieties?
Manuel Moreira: There’s a lot of things going on. Portuguese wines are looking for their different terroirs. We have more different terroirs in the Douro than in Burgundy! People are searching for different locations and trying to reproduce the relationship between the area and the style of the wines.
There are some new regions – in the interior and at altitude. They are bringing something new and exciting – very mineral, very tight and very expressive of their location.
In Lisbon with the coastal influence we also get wines that combine freshness and power, with an amazing array of flavours and ability to age.
Alentejo is known for smooth wines but now they are looking to the coastline to balance freshness with the high alcohol.
In Bairrada they are using Baga on the best plots – with balsamic flavours and chalky tannins.
It is very exciting for Portuguese wines.
