An expert guide to Bairrada wines

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Bairrada is one of Portugal’s most important and yet least discovered wine regions. Professor José Carvalheira at Estação Vitivinícola da Bairrada has been thoroughly researching Bairrada and is the winemaker at Caves São João, with access to one of the most extensive cellars for aged Bairrada wines (and aged Dão wines). In this expert guide to Bairrada wines, José talks about the terroir of the region, its history, the grape varieties best adapted here, their character and their ageing potential. This full expert interview is for subscribers only.

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Wine Tasting notes from Bairrada

As well as researching the region, José Carvalheira is a consultant winemaker in Bairrada and has his own family winery. Here are some recommendations of the wines he producers in the Bairrada region:

Hibernus, Cuvee de Noir Brut Nature 2012 

A blend of Baga and Touriga Nacional blanc de noir that spends four years on the lees. This wine has a beautiful honeyed, white-gold colour with a lovely lees-y nose of brioche and sweet almonds. In the mouth, it is a wonderfully complex mix of floral and toasty notes with a spine of acidity and a lovely creamy finish.

Hibernus, Grande Cuvee, Brut Nature 2011

This blend of 25% Chardonnay, 25% Baga and 50% Arinto which brings the acidity (although there is no lack of acidity with Baga). This shows more development on the lees and has rich toasty notes, the mouth is fresh but complex with white floral and orchard notes among the honeybees and cream. This is a keeper.

Frei João Clássico White 2015

The ‘clássico’ actually means made in a classic, old-fashioned, minimal intervention style – it is one of their top white wines and is a Bical and Cerceal blend aged in used oak. It has lots of white fruit on the nose but it is really in the mouth that this wine comes out to play – with its bright, citric acidity which will age well for years.

Ante AE Quinoctium Veranum, Grande Reserva 2014

A blend of Bical and Arinto that has been made with three days of skin contact and some time in oak barrels (a blend of 10% new oak, and 90% old), this wine has a perfumed and aromatic note of jasmine and blossom. The mouthfeel is much more voluptuous, which balances out the acidity and gives this wine a long but fresh finish.

Ante AE Quinoctium Veranum, Grande Reserva 2010

This is made in the same way, but has four more years to the wine, which comes out with notes of dried flowers, chamomile and honey. A delicate freshness keeps it feeling youthful.

Frei Joao, Bairrada 2011 

Made in a historical style – aged in concrete vats for 5 years with minimal intervention. The blend is dominated by Baga with a touch of Touriga Nacional, this has some more balsamic notes with aromas of forest pine and dark fruit. It is smooth, fresh and has a lovely juiciness to it. This is a beautiful wine to drink today but with its smart acidity, it will age well.

Mata Fidalgo Garrafeira 2015 

A 100% Baga wine aged in oak barrels, this has a smoky, meaty style with the fresh acidity that you come to love of Baga. 

Vigesimum 2014

Launched to celebrate his 20th harvest, this is a Baga blend with 20% Touriga Nacional. This was a rainy vintage but José didn’t let that stop him making a spectacular Baga: filled with dark fruit, spice and dried leaf notes, this has a really plush mouthfeel and integrated, peppery tannins.

The ageing ability of Bairrada wines

This free clip from the expert guide to Bairrada wines is for all readers:

José Carvalheira: Bairrada whites age excellently. The oldest I have tried is 1966, an excellent vintage in Europe and in Portugal. In the white wines, I think it is the most amazing. In the red wines, the most amazing to me is 1963 and 1983. 1983 in Bairrada but also in Dão. I have tried one bottle of the ’83 Cave San Joao Reserva in the Faculty of Oenology Bordeaux. Comparing it with Margaux and other wines, and the winner was Cave San Joao 83. With winemakers from all around the world!

Amanda Barnes: And what’s the price difference?

The price difference was 10 times!