Lavaux is one of the most striking wine regions in Switzerland with dramatic vineyards dropping off into Lake Geneva and facing France to the south. Over 800 hectares of continuous vineyards are blanketed on the steep hillsides beside the lake and vines have been cultivated here since the Romans. The infrastructure that is protected by UNESCO is Lavaux’s stone walls, terraces which the monks built one thousand years ago to protect the vineyards from erosion. There’s another great benefit to these terraces, as local winemaker Benjamin Massy explains in this interview about the Lavaux wine region (and sub appellations), it’s terroir, climate and wines:
A taste of Luc Massy Vins in Lavaux
Luc Massy Vins is now entering its fourth generation of vintners with Benjamin and his brother Gregory gradually taking the reigns over from Luc, who still overseas this family winery in Lavaux. The average domain in the Lavaux wine region is 3.5 hectares and so they are bigger than average with 10 hectares (although only 1.7 hectares is owned, the rest is rented). With 9 hectares of Chasselas, this is their emblematic grape, although Benjamin has introduced two reds to the portfolio – a fruity and spicy Gamay, and a Merlot blend.
La Crosse 2016 (16 Fr)
This is their Chasselas from Epesses, an appellation that covers 180 hectrares, and this is selected from around 2 hectares where they have lighter clay-calcarious soil, which ranges from vineyards closer to the top of the hill and others closer to the lake. This wine has a light nose of pretty orchard fruit notes and white blossom, with a refreshing finish. Benjamin keeps this under screw cap in order to preserve the fresh aromas.
Clos de Bous Grand Cru 2016 (18 Fr)
This is from their 1.8 hectare vineyard, which is considered a Clos because it is enclosed by tall walls and a river, with the 1663 house on the property. This is their Grand Cru and has a slightly more complex nose, reflecting the higher lime content in the soils. This wine has a weightier mouthfeel and a bit more depth to the finish.
Sous-les-Rocs St-Saphorin 2016 (18 Fr)
The soil is much lighter, with more of a gravel and pebble content coming from this region. It has a lighter nose with more mineral notes, with a crisp mouthfeel and finish. It is lighter but also more precise; an attractive example of a Chasselas.
Dézaley, Chemin de Fer Grand Cru 2016 (29 Fr)
Named ‘railway’, this wine is from the plots of land that were expropriated for building the railway and then returned. This has much more complexity in the nose and shows more development from ageing in large oak foudres – as his great-grandfather started doing over 180 years ago. This is a wine that can age for much longer, and comes from a very mixed soil with large rocks and much closer access to the lake. Much more rounded and complex. It comes in a bottle that is specific to Dézalay and can be purchased in combination with wines from other Baronnie du Dézaley producers – who all abide by certain production rules. Dézalay is one of only two AOC Grand Cru appellations in Switzerland. It is very close to the lake and very steep, so it has less wind and has big pudding concrete.
Epesses Sauvignon Blanc 2016 (24 Fr)
His father started making Sauvignon Blanc over 22 years ago, when it wasn’t a permitted grape in the region, but continued making it anyway because he loved it. Since 1998, they have been able to officially call it Sauvignon Blanc and two years ago Benjamin started fermenting it in a concrete egg. This Sauvignon Blanc has a delicate nose with some richness on the palate resulting from time on the lees. A fresh and attractively restrained style of Sauvignon Blanc.
Cret-Bailli Epesses Gamay 2015 (18 Fr)
This light-coloured Gamay is a pinkish ruby colour and has an expressive nose of cherry, perfume and pink peppercorn. Fresh and very drinkable Gamay.
Dezalay Chemin de Terre Grand Cru 2015 (37 Fr)
A blend of 35% Merlot and the rest is a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay from Dézaley, it is effectively a field blend, which gains some of the berry notes from the Merlot with the red fruit of Pinot Noir and Gamay. Juicy and refreshing but with some spice and concentration making this much more flexible for food pairings.
Lavaux wine region: Interview transcript
Can you give us an overview of Lavaux wine region, it’s terroir and climate?
We are here in Epesses appellation, and behind me is the Dézaley. The terroir here is more calcareous, where we are right now is really lime-based. Chasselas is our grape in the region.
And what are the main influences here? How does the lake impact the grape growing?
The lake will impact in two ways, or three ways. It does temperature moderation and also brings reflection of the sun to the vineyards. So that will heat up [the vines] more. With the moderation we will avoid frosts until now [late Autumn].
And you told me that there are three types of sun here in the Lavaux.
Yeah! So, there’s the direct one, the walls (which bring a lot of heat during the night), and also the lake – the reflection. And if you want to add a fourth one, it will be the heart of the winemaker!
Ahhhh – wooo! (laugh)
And can you tell us why this is a UNESCO heritage site?
So UNESCO is all the region of Lavaux, as you can see maybe behind me it’s absolutely stunning. And it was decided to be UNESCO because of the monks here, they started to work in 1100, 1200AD and people thought that’s maybe something [special].
Excellent, and the retaining walls, they are not just for the erosion but also the heat.
Yeah. They bring heat, because the stones really heat up with the sun during the day will bring heat in the night, all night long.
Excellent. And tell me about the slopes, which way are we facing? And the aspect, the gradient.
So, we are now on the 30 – 35 gradient slope, we are facing south – so the lake, or France, just after the lake. And they can go until 40 – 45% in Dézaley in steepness.
Excellent, and why is Chasselas the main grape here? It was born here, you said? And why does it thrive here, why does it do so well?
I think it’s a little bit of everything but first as you just said it was really born here, and for us it’s just the perfection here. Because we like to drink it! And drink it mostly every time. But also it will grow really well here. Because of the three suns, because of the soil, because of everything. And it’s really the grape that fits here.
And what does it taste like? For someone who has never tried Chasselas?
So, it’s a delicate white wine. Not so fruity or expressive as another. You have to take your time to comprehend it. And it’s a delicate white wine, you can really pair it with fish, or cheese – absolutely delightful – or just drink it everywhen, everywhere. And as my grandfather said, it’s a ‘vin sauve’ so it’s a wine you can always drink! And never be thirsty.
And you actually have five Chasselas wines…
Yeah, five different. Two in the appellation Epesses, two in Dézaley and one on st saphorin.
So what’s the difference in terms of appellations? In terms of the difference physically in the place, and how that impacts the style of the Chasselas?
So the difference between the three different appellations will be the steepness of the slope, also the soil. It is lighter on st-saphorin, a little bit heavier here in Epesses and really complex with a lot of layers in Dézaley. And Dézaley is really the steepest one.
Do you have a local pairing for your Dézaley Chasselas?
Yeah – cheese! Gruyere from Switzerland. Or filet pesce. I don’t know how to say that in English.
Fillet of fish! From this lake?
Yeah, yeah, if we’re lucky!
