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There’s no doubting that Chasselas is a vinous paradox. It’s one of the most widely grown grape varieties in the world, as widespread as Canada, China, Romania and New Zealand, but it is practically unknown to any consumers outside of its native Switzerland.
With over 38,000 hectares planted worldwide, Chasselas is more common than Zinfandel (32,700 ha), and its plantings are almost double those of Grüner Veltliner (18,800 ha). But Chasselas wine rarely makes it onto any wine lists because it’s frequently used for uninteresting table wines or eating grapes. In Switzerland, however, Chasselas is the champion white variety, making up 28% of national wine production and revered for its finesse and terroir expression.
This sharp juxtaposition of perception is due to the nature of the variety. High-yielding and early ripening, Chasselas is preferable in marginal climates where long cycle varieties suffer from frost (hence its popularity in regions such as British Columbia and Baden). It’s a safe option but it risks being boring, as a non-aromatic variety with naturally low acidity and low alcohol (11 to 13% abv).
So how has it become the Grande Dame of Swiss wine?
While Chasselas originates from Switzerland, there’s no shortage of other native varieties, according to Swiss ampelographer and Cépages Suisses author José Vouillamoz: “We grow, officially, more than 250 grape varieties on a mere 15,000 hectares – it’s probably a world record!” says Vouillamoz. “I’ve counted 80 indigenous varieties.” Despite the many alternatives, Chasselas is by far the most planted native variety in Switzerland, occupying almost 4,000 hectares.
“Chasselas was born here, and this is where it finds perfection,” says winemaker Benjamin Massy, whose family winery makes five different Chasselas wines in Lavaux. “It’s delicate though – you have to take your time to comprehend it.”
Swiss wine writer and author of ‘Chasselas – From Féchy to Dézaley’, Chandra Kurt admits: “It took me a very long time to understand the grape. When I was younger I wanted something heavy, like a Chardonnay, but when you travel around and taste many wines you realise that there are few that are so light and digestible.”
The character of Chasselas is paradoxically determined by its very lack of character: “It has low acidity, low alcohol and low aromatics but it has this unique freshness and elegance, it’s very delicate,” says Catherine Cruchon of Henri Cruchon. “Because the variety doesn’t have its own strong personality, it really does take its personality from the soil. You really taste where it comes from.”
Switzerland has a great variety of soils, ranging between chalk, clay, sand, gravel and schist, and while the country is united by a cool, continental climate, there’s a wide range of microclimates impacted by lakes, Alpine mountains and altitude (Switzerland has the highest altitude vineyards in Europe). Capturing the terroir expression and not overpowering the simplicity and filigree nature of Chasselas is a challenge:
“It’s not easy to make because it’s so subtle,” says Julien Dutruy, winemaker at Les Freres Dutruy. “It’s probably the most difficult wine we make because Chasselas can’t tolerate reduction or oxidation; it doesn’t like barrels; and you have to be really careful with the yeast because the wine is so neutral. We have to manage the vinification with accuracy.”
The very neutrality of Chasselas makes its winemaking a precise art. But if there ever was a nation known for its precision – it would be the Swiss. And so this aromatically-neutral grape has found its home in this politically-neutral country, with thousands of single-vineyard Chasselas wines on the market that range from basic to Grand Cru.
Despite the plethora of producers, tasting Chasselas outside of Switzerland is difficult. Only 2% of its wine production is exported, making supplies scarce. Although demand is growing, the price point is another hurdle:
“The market grew every year from 2003 to 2010, until the dollar lost 40% of its value against the Swiss Franc,” says Laurent Crolla, who imports a dozen Chasselas wines to the US through Swiss Cellars. “It has somewhat recovered (both the dollar and volume) but the exchange rate is still a big issue. The more interesting Swiss wines retail above US$25.”
There’s another conundrum in the convoluted marketing of Chasselas. There are 248 known synonyms for Chasselas and, although it has many names, the varietal is rarely used on the bottle: “In Switzerland we have a very old wine culture with Chasselas and, like in Burgundy, we don’t call the wines by the grape’s name – but by the commune,” explains Chandra Kurt. The combination of multiple synonyms and eschewing the varietal name in favour of the village, means that identifying a Chasselas from the label alone is a most vexing task.
These factors, compounded with its inconspicuous character, explain why, outside of Switzerland, Chasselas remains the domain of the intellectual and expert drinker: “Professionals seem to have gained interest and knowledge of the regions and producers – the question now is if that can be translated into actual consumer interest,” says Arvid Rosengren, New York sommelier and Best Sommelier in the World 2016. “Chasselas obviously can make good wine, but much of it is overly neutral and boring. It’s very malleable, or put in a nicer way, terroir-transparent. The classic Grand Cru sites make better wine, which is a good thing. I think the perception abroad has to start at the top.”
While Chasselas wine is still off the radar for most, this unique Swiss variety is beginning to appeal to a section of drinkers looking for something different. As many in the wine world recoil from the excesses of oak and extraction popularised in recent decades, Chasselas might just offer the antidote. Today wine critics swoon over the words ‘minerality’, ‘balance’ and ‘drinkability’, and there couldn’t be a more fitting description for Chasselas.
Written for Daily.SevenFifty
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